**SX 61: Only when the top & idle needle are right on the money should the hover 3rd needle be opened from the fully closed position. 30% nitro SX61's have had this set to 3/8 turn open from FSRC to start with. Again, recheck the "top - down", then the hover needle when any changes are made.
Here is the best "secret": Your engine will talk to you. Listen to it. Never ignore it. Fix needle settings right away. As your new piston / liner begins to break in, the engine will naturally start to go rich, brapping in & out of a two / four stroke break. Lean out the top needle a few clicks & recheck the top down procedure again. Always let the engine cool down completely before removing the glow plug, so as not to damage the cylinder head threads. Check the plug often in a new engine. Check it at the end of every flying day on well set engines.
One of two after run procedures must be used to ensure maximum bearing & liner life. Loose bearing micro corrosion particles shorten plug & liner life drastically. These particles go through the engine upon the 1st start up of the day, ruining the precision fit of the piston.
1-Pull off fuel line while at idle on the last flight of the day. It helps to pinch off the fuel line with hemostats before it goes into the carb filter to prevent pressurized fuel from squirting everywhere. This will empty the line & carburetor, preventing fresh fuel from pulling in moisture. Hold The Rotor Head until the engine stops. Leave radio on & restart engine at start setting, fuel line still removed. Keep "blipping" starter trigger with glow plug lit until no more popping is heard. Finally, rotate crank shaft backwards to seal off exhaust port & carburetor intake from the outside air.
2-Pull off fuel line as above. Wait until engine cools & remove glow plug, placing a paper towel over the cylinder head. Open carburetor barrel 100% & spray any marine grade aerosol corrosion inhibitor down the throat for five full seconds while spinning engine over with the starter. Replace plug, shut barrel & rotate shaft backwards as above. We have found that CRC 5-56 works quite well. WD-40 reacts with **some** fuel oils & leads to weird gumming + some corrosion. Your mileage may vary here. Marine grade sprays, airtool oils & Performance Specialties after run oil all provide superior bearing protection. Any engine with silicon fuel system pieces, pumps etc..., can only use the Performance Specialties oil.

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