TELEBEE HEADING LOCK GYRO
REPRINTED FROM ROTORY MODELER MAGAZINE
WWW.ROTORY.COM
Another important aspect of the heading hold gyro is the connection to the servo wheel.
I recommend making the connection about 12-14mm out from the center. If “hunting” still
occurs, regardless of gain setting, try moving the attaching point out further on the wheel.
Keep in mind that “hunting” will occur during approaches, if the head speed goes up too high.
Adjust your Pitch / Throttle curves to help prevent this. Make sure that the servo arm is
centered on the servo, and also pay close attention to the tailrotor input arm, making sure
everything is symmetrical. Make certain that the tailrotor has plenty of travel but does not
bind in either direction.
As you fire-up the gyro for the first time, you will notice a slight delay in movement while
the system initializes. After moving the rudder stick either way, if the tailrotor servo moves
somewhat normal then locks in a fixed position, you’re more than likely in the “normal” mode.
If the servo has a slight movement towards one direction, and at times does not return to
center, you’re probably in “Heading Hold” mode. While in “Heading Hold” mode, you’ll need to
either adjust the rudder channel trim or your transmitters “subtrims” to stop the movement.
Adjust the subtrim either up or down until the movement stops or moves as slow as possible.
An acceptable range is 10-20 seconds to reach full travel.
Don’t confuse the above movement with temperature drift, like any Piezo gyro, there will be
a bit of “drift” until the temperature stabilizes. This “drift” could continue for up to 5
minutes in some cases. The Telebee does have drift cancellation and temperature compensation
circuitry, which helps considerably. I’m mentioning this last so it stays fresh in your mind -
check to make sure the tail rotor servo linkage is moving in the correct direction, so right
is right, and left is left.
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